Guides & Notes from the Workshop
This blog is where I share practical explanations on Japanese kitchen knives, steel, geometry, care, and sharpening. No fluff. Just clear guidance based on real work at the anvil and the stone, so you can choose the right knife and keep it performing for years.
Gyuto knife vs santoku: differences that matter
One blade can change your whole prep rhythm—longer strokes or compact control? This guide breaks down gyuto knife vs santoku by blade length (210–240 mm vs 160–180 mm), tip shape, and edge profile. Learn which knife matches your motion, kitchen space, and daily cooking.
Japanese santoku knife: size, control, and daily use
One knife that moves from onions to salmon to chicken without losing your rhythm? A japanese santoku knife is built for slicing, dicing, and chopping, with a compact profile that feels controlled on the board. This guide breaks down the practical details—typical 170mm length, weight and balance, edge geometry, steel choices, and the care habits that keep the edge intact.
How do you maintain a japanese knife: the basics
A Japanese knife can feel like a laser—until moisture, a hard board, or a crowded drawer ruins the edge. This guide explains how do you maintain a japanese knife with a simple routine: gentle cleaning, immediate drying, smart storage, and consistent edge work.
Japanese petty knife: what it is and what it’s for
Why does one small knife end up doing so much in prep? A japanese petty knife fills the gap between a paring knife and a gyuto, giving you fast control for detailed work on the board and in-hand. This guide breaks down the typical sizes, blade shapes, steels, and the most common mistakes cooks make.
Bunka knife: what makes it special and how to use it
Need a compact knife that still feels precise on the board? A bunka knife blends a wide blade, a flatter edge, and a sharp k tip for day-to-day prep—veg, herbs, and boneless proteins. This guide explains where the shape came from, what specs matter, and how it compares with santoku and gyuto.
Japanese pocket knife: design, steel, and use
Why does a japanese pocket knife feel so quiet and precise in the cut? This guide explains the roots—from kozuka to Higonokami—plus the design logic behind hard steels, thin grinds, and simple mechanisms. You’ll also learn what these knives do best, what to avoid, and how to care for the edge.
Yanagiba sushi knife: what it is and how to use it
Ever wonder why sashimi slices look glossy instead of torn? This guide explains what a yanagiba sushi knife is, how its single-bevel geometry and urasuki affect the cut, and what that means on the board. You’ll also learn practical basics for sizing, use, sharpening, and daily care.
Japanese fish knife: types, uses, and key geometry
Fish shows every mistake: drag, tearing, and the glossy “paste” that comes from rough cuts. This guide explains what a japanese fish knife is, why geometry and single bevel grinds matter, and which blade fits each job—from breakdown to sashimi slicing.
Gyuto knife vs chef knife: differences that matter
Which blade really fits your board work—scalpel-like precision or rugged forgiveness? This guide breaks down gyuto knife vs chef knife across profile, length, weight, steel hardness, and edge retention. You’ll learn what each does best, how to maintain it, and where people most often go wrong.
Higonokami knife: history, sizing, steels, and care
Why does a friction folder with no real lock still feel so usable? This guide explains what a higonokami knife is, where it came from, and how the design works in daily carry. You’ll also compare common sizes (75/100/120 mm), typical steels, and the basics of sharpening and rust care.
Kiritsuke knife: what it is and how to use it
A long, flat edge with a sharp k-tip can feel precise—or unforgiving. This guide explains what a kiritsuke knife really is, how it differs from a gyuto or santoku, and what the geometry is built to do. You’ll also learn how length (240–330 mm), bevel choice, and technique affect everyday performance.
Tamahagane steel: verdict, process, and real trade-offs
Is tamahagane steel a real performance upgrade, or mostly heritage you can feel and see? This guide breaks down how it’s made from iron sand in a tatara, why it varies by piece, and how forging, folding, and quenching shape its look and behavior. You’ll also learn where it matches modern carbon steels—and where it demands more skill, geometry discipline, and maintenance.
What is the best Japanese chef knife for beginners
A 210 mm gyuto is the “boring” pick that usually makes the most sense for home cooks. This guide answers what is the best japanese chef knife for beginners by breaking down blade styles, bevels, steels, and what to check before buying. You’ll also learn the common mistakes that chip edges or cause stains—and how to avoid them.
Tamahagane steel knife: worth it & how it performs
Is a tamahagane steel knife worth it—or just romantic hype? This guide explains what Tamahagane steel is, why it varies, and how that affects edge retention, sharpening, and maintenance. You’ll also see which knife styles fit Tamahagane best and where tradition matters most in real use.
Whetstone sharpening tutorial: angles, burr, grit
Sharpness is mostly geometry: angle, pressure, and a clean apex- not “magic steel.” This whetstone sharpening tutorial shows how to choose grits, build and remove a burr, and keep consistent angles for double and single bevel knives.
Japanese utility knife: petty, sizes, uses, care
Need a small knife that feels precise without being fussy? A japanese utility knife—often called a petty—sits between a paring knife and a gyuto for quick prep and detail work. This guide explains the sizes (about 80–150 mm), typical tasks, and what to avoid so the thin edge stays reliable.